Prague

Our summer was absolutely extraordinary, thanks to the unforgettable visit of my parents and beloved Mausi. Once our guests departed, we made the decision to embark on a short personal adventure, and we ultimately chose to set off on a road trip to Prague.

Day 0 – 25 August 2023

We left our residence at noon and picked up Sree and Shikher from their homes before driving to Fabrikschleichach, Germany. We arrived quite late, and locating our accommodation proved a bit confusing. We made a wrong turn, parked, and found ourselves in an area devoid of people, which gave us a slightly eerie feeling. However, after we found the correct path to our hotel, Zur Glashütte, we also spotted other guests on the way. Our room had a connected balcony, and we relished the swing and the night sky before retiring for the evening.

Day 1 – 26 August 2023

Following breakfast, we completed the hotel check-out process and then embarked on a drive to Prague. Upon reaching our destination, we checked into Apartrezidence Opletalova, where we would be staying for the entirety of our visit.

The travel blogs we consulted while crafting our itinerary recommended simply strolling through the old town. While there weren’t specific landmarks per se, the entire old town was a sight to behold. Every building we encountered compelled us to pause and appreciate its uniqueness. Not a single two structures were identical, yet each one held a captivating charm, leading us to incessantly snap pictures of these randomly beautiful buildings. During our stroll through the Old Town, we couldn’t resist grabbing some shawarma from Matoka Shawarma Bar.

We came across a store named Candy Miners, which was a fantastic shop offering a wide variety of candies and nuts. The shop’s interior is creatively designed to resemble a miner’s environment, complete with rocks and underground-themed decorations. The unique concept involves customers walking through tunnels and selecting their desired candies and nuts, which they can then place in a paper bag. At the checkout, the items are weighed and priced at 150 Korona per 100 grams.

Our initial planned stop was at the Astronomical Clock, an intricate timepiece situated on the southern side of the Old Town Hall Tower in Prague’s Old Town Square. Dating back to the early 15th century, the Prague Astronomical Clock stands as one of the oldest operational astronomical clocks. It boasts a wooden face adorned with captivating Gothic and astronomical designs, encircled by an assortment of dials and decorative elements, transcending its utilitarian role to become a true masterpiece of art. This clock isn’t merely a timekeeping device; it doubles as an astronomical instrument, presenting a plethora of celestial information, including the sun and moon’s positions, lunar phases, zodiac signs, and various time systems like Old Czech Time, Babylonian Time, and Central European Time. Every hour, as the clock chimes, a procession of twelve apostles emerges from two small windows above the astronomical dial. Fortunately, we arrived at the tower just in time to witness the enchanting and unique spectacle of the apostles in motion.

We also passed by the Old Town Hall, which is situated at the southern end of the Old Town Square. It features stunning arches, pointed windows, and intricate detailing on its facade, showcasing the rich history and architectural heritage of the city.

We proceeded to the Old Town Square, referred to as “Staroměstské náměstí” in Czech, a historic and picturesque public square nestled in the heart of Prague’s Old Town (Staré Město). Encircling the square is an exceptional collection of architectural marvels. The square is notably dominated by the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn, graced with its distinctive twin spires. The buildings surrounding the square showcase a diverse array of architectural styles, including Gothic, Baroque, and Rococo. At the square’s centre, one finds the Jan Hus Memorial, an eminent statue commemorating the reformer and religious thinker Jan Hus, a pivotal figure in Czech history. We were irresistibly drawn to the square’s architectural grandeur and lively ambience that enveloped the area.

We proceeded to enter the Church of Our Lady before Týn, celebrated for its commanding Gothic architecture and profound historical importance. Its defining features are the towering twin spires that lord over the panorama of Prague’s Old Town, creating a striking and formidable impression with its sombre Gothic façade. Within the church, we encountered an interior of equal splendour, marked by opulent Gothic and Baroque embellishments. We marvelled at the vaulted ceilings, the intricate altarpieces, and a rich assortment of religious artworks and sculptures.

We proceeded along Celetná Street, where we were greeted by a diverse array of architectural styles ranging from Gothic and Renaissance to Baroque and Neo-Renaissance. The buildings lining the street displayed intricate embellishments on their facades, creating an ambience of enduring sophistication. Celetná Street leads to the Powder Tower, known as “Prašná brána” in Czech. This striking Gothic tower, one of the original city gates, played a dual role in history. It served both as a protective gateway at the eastern entrance of Prague and as a repository for gunpowder and munitions, thus earning its name “Powder Tower.” The tower is enriched with sculpted adornments, including statues of historical figures and saints. Adjacent to the Powder Tower, we came upon the Obecní Dům, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau architecture. Its exterior boasted intricate ornamentation, decorative sculptures, and a breathtaking mosaic above the main entrance, encapsulating the essence of the Art Nouveau style. As we continued our walk, our attention was captured by the Hanging Statue of Sigmund Freud, suspended high above the streets of Prague’s historic district. This bronze representation of Freud appeared to be gripping a colossal, purpose-built beam, creating the illusion that he was dangling by a single hand from the structure. The hanging Freud statue is often regarded as a symbol of Freud’s groundbreaking contributions to psychoanalysis, delving into the profound depths of the human psyche and the unconscious. Our entire journey was a captivating exploration, enriched by encounters with these historical landmarks and architectural marvels.

At last, we arrived at the Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž), situated at the eastern terminus of Prague’s Charles Bridge. This tower stands as a superb representation of late Gothic architecture, replete with hallmarks like intricate stonework, pointed arches, and ornamental reliefs. The tower’s exterior is adorned with an abundance of sculpted decorations and reliefs, many of which carry religious or historical themes. From this vantage point, we relished the sweeping view of Prague’s historic skyline, encompassing Prague Castle and the Lesser Town. Our journey also took us across the Charles Bridge, known as “Karlův most” in Czech, a beloved and iconic Prague landmark. This bridge is a marvel of Gothic design, featuring robust stone arches, exquisitely detailed statues, and ornate embellishments. Notably, Charles Bridge is renowned for the multitude of statues and sculptures that grace both sides of its promenade. These artworks portray a variety of saints, religious figures, and historical luminaries. The bridge itself is often a hub of activity, with street performers, musicians, and artists contributing to the lively ambience. During our visit, we were treated to the melodic tunes of a musician playing an unconventional instrument, which added a delightful musical backdrop to our exploration.

In the evening, we headed to Restaurace Tiskárna Národní to savour some traditional Czech cuisine. Our order included a delectable confit duck leg, a corn-fed chicken supreme, and a hearty beef goulash. While I didn’t indulge in the beef dish, Sree and Shikher thoroughly enjoyed it. My personal favourite was the confit duck leg, and though the chicken was decent, it was the highlight of our culinary experiences in Prague.

Day 2 – 27 August 2023

The shawarma we purchased the day before was quite huge, making it impossible for us to consume it all in one go. We opted to refrigerate it, and while Shikher and Sree went out for breakfast, we indulged in the leftover shawarma for our morning meal. Afterwards, we joined them at Bakeshop, a renowned breakfast establishment. Given Rishi’s fondness for sweets, he succumbed to temptation and ordered a slice of walnut cake with a calvados infusion. We also took photos along the way, admiring the architecture of the old town buildings.

After breakfast, we walked to the left bank of the Vltava River to Lesser Town, known as Malá Strana in Czech. Lesser Town is famous for its stunning Baroque architecture. The district is adorned with numerous Baroque palaces, churches, and historic buildings, creating an ambience of opulence and elegance. The district’s roots trace back to the 13th century, when it was founded as a market town beneath Prague Castle.

We ascended the stairs to Prague Castle, known as “Pražský hrad” in Czech, a grand and historic complex. Upon reaching the summit, we were captivated by the magnificent view. Perched atop the castle’s elevated location, we were treated to panoramic vistas of Prague’s historic Old Town, the meandering Vltava River, and the surrounding cityscape.

We obtained our basic castle ticket, which granted us access to four remarkable locations. Our first stop was the Old Royal Palace, a structure with origins dating back to the 12th century during the reign of King Vladislav I. This palace had been the primary residence of Czech monarchs, emperors, and kings for centuries. It showcased a splendid fusion of both Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles, featuring robust stone walls, pointed arches, and graceful columned arcades.

After our visit to the palace, we proceeded to St. George’s Basilica, a stellar representation of Romanesque architecture celebrated for its simplicity and sturdy construction. Its exterior boasted thick stone walls and rounded arches typical of the Romanesque style. Inside, we encountered a harmonious blend of Gothic and Baroque elements, complete with beautiful vaulted ceilings and intricately adorned altars. The basilica held numerous precious religious artefacts and relics. Over the centuries, it had served as a place of worship for Czech royalty and nobility, and as a burial ground for notable figures, including members of the royal Přemyslid dynasty.

Our exploration then led us to the whimsical and dollhouse-like Golden Lane, so named due to the legendary alchemists who once resided there in pursuit of the secret of transforming ordinary metals into gold. The small houses along this lane featured low ceilings and narrow doorways, reflecting the humble living conditions of the time. In addition to its historical significance, Golden Lane now hosts a variety of shops and artisan workshops where we encountered unique, handcrafted items, including jewellery, ceramics, and traditional Czech products.

Our final destination was the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral, an exemplary masterpiece of high Gothic architecture. It was celebrated for its intricate details, soaring spires, and breathtaking stained glass windows. The cathedral’s design featured pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. Construction commenced in 1344, spanning several centuries and incorporating diverse architectural styles, resulting in a captivating amalgamation of designs within the building. St. Vitus Cathedral housed a remarkable collection of stained glass windows depicting scenes from the Bible and Czech history, casting a vibrant and spiritual ambience over the interior. The exterior of the cathedral left us spellbound, prompting us to capture numerous photographs from every angle, immersing ourselves in its awe-inspiring beauty.

Our original plan included a trip to Kutna Hora, which was more than an hour’s drive away from Prague. However, as our car was parked quite a distance away in the city’s parking lot, Rishi and Shikher opted to use public transportation to retrieve the car while Sree and I took the opportunity to further explore the castle.

With our shared passion for reading, both of us were eager to visit the exquisite Strahov Library. This distinguished library comprises two historic halls, namely the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall. The Theological Hall, being the older of the two, showcases a magnificent frescoed ceiling adorned with depictions of biblical scenes, allegorical figures, and the history of the Premonstratensian order. Equally captivating is the Philosophical Hall, featuring a ceiling embellished with frescoes illustrating the progression of human knowledge and understanding. This hall houses a plethora of valuable philosophical and scientific works. The library’s collection is replete with rare manuscripts, early printed books, and scholarly texts, with some of these volumes tracing their origins back to the mediaeval era, rendering them priceless historical treasures. Our initial expectation was to gain entry into the library, but regrettably, access was restricted, allowing us only to peer inside from the doorway without the possibility of exploring further. Despite this limitation, we made the most of the situation by capturing photographs of both hall’s interiors.

We proceeded to take a leisurely stroll towards Vrtba Garden to explore its beauty. As we walked through the streets and buildings within the Prague Castle area, we couldn’t help but be captivated by the surroundings. Prague Castle is truly immense, ranking as one of the largest castle complexes globally, covering an expansive area of approximately 70,000 square metres. This complex encompasses a diverse array of structures, including palaces, churches, gardens, and courtyards, all steeped in historical significance and architectural grandeur. During our walk, we even had the pleasure of traversing Nerudova Street, celebrated for its quaint cobblestone lanes, vibrant facades, and the presence of beautifully preserved Baroque-era buildings. While we were on our way to Vrtba Garden, Rishi and Shikher arrived in our car, picking us up directly from the street.

We made our way to Kutna Hora and explored the Sedlec Ossuary, famously known as the Bone Church. The focal point of the ossuary is the Chapel of Bones, a small chapel embellished with an estimated 40,000 to 70,000 human skeletons. These bones were unearthed from mass graves dating back to the Black Death and the Hussite Wars. Notably, the Pyramid of Bones, a large pyramid-shaped structure formed by carefully stacked human skulls, stands as one of the most impactful features within the chapel. The experience was rather eerie, and we found ourselves not fully enjoying it. Our expectations might have been set too high, as the chapel turned out to be smaller than we had imagined.

We strolled through the town, capturing images of charming streets and picturesque view of the beautiful church from a distance.

It had been quite a while since we had eaten anything since breakfast, so we were quite hungry. Searching for nearby restaurants, we came across Staročeská restaurace V Ruthardce, which had received favourable ratings. Our order consisted of Grilled Baked Trout Fillet in butter, Chicken Breast with skin, sautéed vegetables with chips, thyme, and butter, and Celery Mousse, along with Grilled Duck Breast with red wine sauce, wild cranberries, and poppy seed mash. While the food was satisfactory, it didn’t quite reach the exceptional standard set by our dinner at Tiskárna the previous night. The duck, in particular, was disappointingly chewy, especially considering our high expectations following the delightful duck dish we had enjoyed the night before. The chicken and trout, on the other hand, were decent.

Ultimately, we strolled towards St. Barbara’s Church, an exemplary showcase of late Gothic architecture celebrated for its intricate design and structural grace. The church’s construction unfolded over the course of several centuries, commencing with the laying of the foundation stone in 1388 and culminating in its consecration in 1905. Elaborate details, such as delicate tracery, sculpted reliefs, and soaring spires, adorned the church’s exterior. Unfortunately, due to our extended dining time, we arrived after the church had closed, prompting us to appreciate its grandeur from the outside. The path leading to the church was embellished with statues, and glimpses of grape vines peeked beyond the surrounding walls. Despite missing the opportunity to explore its interior, we found joy in admiring the exterior of the church. Opting not to approach the church’s facade due to imminent rain, we captured photographs and promptly made our way to the car just as the rain began.

Upon our arrival in Prague, the rain had ceased. Shikher and Rishi kindly dropped us off at our accommodation and proceeded to park the car. Sree and I took a moment to freshen up and fetched jackets for everyone, gearing up for an evening walk around the old town.

Once they had parked, Shikher and Rishi called us to join them at the Quadrio shopping centre’s courtyard, home to the mesmerising Head of Franz Kafka. This distinctive and surreal sculpture, a tribute to the renowned writer Franz Kafka, was crafted by Czech artist David Černý. Constructed from stainless steel, the sculpture’s reflective surface engages with natural light, producing captivating visual effects. Comprising 42 independently controlled moving layers, the kinetic sculpture allowed Kafka’s head to rotate and transform into diverse shapes. Every half hour, the head paused for 15 minutes at the perfect position before resuming its captivating motion for another 15 minutes. Arriving just in time for the rotation to commence, we immersed ourselves in the unique experience, observing the dynamic transformations and movements of Kafka’s head.

We weren’t too hungry since we had eaten quite a bit during our late lunch. Therefore, we opted to explore Crème de la Crème, a renowned gelato chain in Prague. While I adhered to my preferred Dark Chocolate flavour, the others ventured into trying various flavours and found delight in the experience.

After that, we chose to take a walk and enjoy how the city looks at night. Visiting Old Town Square and Charles Bridge in Prague during the nighttime, was like being in a magical place. The city’s old-fashioned charm felt so alive, with the streetlights shining and the river reflecting everything. The Charles Bridge and Old Town Square looked different and special at night, showing a new side of Prague’s beautiful buildings and rich history. The landmarks, lit up by soft evening lights, made the experience really unforgettable.

Day 3 – 28 August 2023

After getting ready, we ventured out to the street market close to the Old Town. The market featured numerous souvenirs, and their prices were more affordable than those in nearby shops. Additionally, there were stalls selling fresh fruits and vegetables, and one stall caught my attention with its offering of local honey wine. Intrigued by its uniqueness, I decided to purchase the local honey wine.

As we hadn’t tried breakfast at Bakeshop the day before, we chose to return for another morning meal. This time, our order included chicken and mushroom quiche, cheesecake with hazelnut crust, and a combination of biscotti and chocolate brownie. Every item was remarkably delicious.

We then headed to the Jewish Quarter with the intention of visiting the Spanish Synagogue, renowned for its mesmerising beauty. The admission ticket, priced at €16 for the entire campus, seemed reasonable considering it granted access to four places within the quarters. However, due to time constraints, our preference was solely for the Spanish Synagogue. Unfortunately, we discovered that individual entry was not an option, prompting us to reconsider due to the higher cost. After much contemplation, we made the decision to forgo the visit. While exploring the Jewish Quarter, we also came across the statue of Franz Kafka, a creation by artist Jaroslav Róna. This sculpture, situated on Vězeňská street, depicts Franz Kafka atop the shoulders of a headless figure, alluding to the author’s 1912 story “Description of a Struggle.”

We packed our bags, bid farewell to the enchanting city, and commenced our journey out of Prague. Along the way, we came across the Dancing House, a unique and contemporary architectural gem nestled in the city. It stands out for its deconstructivist style, featuring fluid and unconventional shapes that challenge the conventions of traditional architecture. This design is a striking departure from the nearby Baroque, Gothic, and Art Nouveau structures that typically grace Prague’s skyline.

En route to Germany, we took a brief pause at Karlovy Vary, a scenic spa town situated in the western region of the Czech Republic. This town is renowned for its abundance of thermal springs, which feature mineral-rich waters with temperatures ranging from warm to hot.

Feeling quite hungry as lunchtime had passed, we set out in search of a restaurant. However, desiring a change from Czech cuisine, which we had been indulging in for the past two days, we opted for an Asian dining experience. Our choice was IMI – Asia – Sushi – Restaurant, boasting an impressive 4.9 rating on Google. Our order consisted of a mix maki set featuring 40 pieces of sushi and a delectable chicken noodle bowl. The sushi proved to be delightful, prompting us to add another plate of salmon sushi to our order. As per our usual routine, we ended up eating more than planned, relishing every bite of the delicious meal.

We then proceeded to Stará Louka, renowned as one of the most captured streets in the city. This charming thoroughfare is lined with elegant old townhouses along the north bank of the Teplá River, framed by the evergreen hills of Slavkovský Les. The numerous delightful bridges added to its allure. As we strolled along, we encountered a variety of boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. Notably, we spotted the Grand Hotel Pupp, boasting 228 rooms and a history spanning over 300 years. Hosting distinguished guests from Beethoven to Morgan Freeman, the hotel’s rich history has served as the backdrop for famous movies, including ‘Casino Royale’ and ‘The Last Holiday.’ The enchanting atmosphere of the street captivated us, prompting us to capture numerous photographs of its beauty.

At last, we journeyed to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, where we lodged at Gästehaus Alter Keller. This accommodation boasted modernised rooms within a historic structure. The well-lit, country-style rooms were adorned with wooden furnishings and equipped with satellite TV. Although we arrived at the hotel quite late, the self-check-in process made our entry into the building relatively smooth. However, for parking, Rishi and Shikher had to navigate to a separate location.

Day 4 – 29 August 2023

In the morning, Rishi and Shikher headed out to find a place for breakfast. Sree and I joined them later at Brot & Zeit, a bakery and breakfast venue near our accommodation. The place offered a variety of excellent options to choose from.

We opted to take a stroll through Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a captivating and meticulously preserved medieval town in Germany. Renowned for its exceptionally well-maintained medieval architecture, cobblestone streets, and picturesque surroundings, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is also celebrated for its delightful Christmas market.

We came across the Market Square (Marktplatz), a lively centre surrounded by colourful buildings. The square hosts the Town Hall (Rathaus), an impressive structure featuring an astronomical clock.

During our stroll, we came across a Christmas store that seemed dedicated to selling holiday items. It had a museum-like ambience, showcasing its merchandise on two floors. We were taken aback, considering it was still August. It became apparent that they offer Christmas goods year-round, given the town’s reputation for its Christmas markets. Subsequently, we noticed several similar Christmas shops, although we didn’t explore all of them.

We eventually arrived at the Castle Garden (Burggarten), a structured garden dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. It features eight sandstone sculptures, representing the four seasons and the four elements. From the expansive terrace within the garden, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the entire Tauber Valley.

Next, we encountered Plönlein, a renowned location showcasing a delightful half-timbered house with a small fountain in front, nestled between two towers. This spot stands out as one of the most photographed locations in the town.

Subsequently, we headed towards Gerlachschmiede, an ancient dwelling originally constructed on Wenggasse in 1469. This historic forge boasts an endearing triangular gable on a porch supported by wooden beams. Despite Plönlein’s fame, we found this house to be even more captivating in its beauty.

Ultimately, we ascended the renowned Town Wall in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Encircling the town, these well-preserved city walls provided us with sweeping panoramas of the town and the picturesque countryside. Delighted by the view of the town, we also took the opportunity to explore a couple of towers along the wall.

We packed our bags and, at last, began our journey back home. Our journey through Prague and the enchanting destinations along the way was nothing short of a captivating adventure. Exploring iconic landmarks, savouring diverse cuisines, and stumbling upon unexpected treasures made this trip a mosaic of delightful experiences.

One thought on “Prague

  1. Beautiful place and beautiful you two. you explore the place really well. when I went to Prague, it was -7° outside temperature so we went to see something then went for coffee so there were lots of coffee less exploration 😄

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