This trip began with Mummyji’s wish to visit Ayodhya, and while it started as a simple plan, it soon grew into a full-fledged pilgrimage across Uttar Pradesh. Nupur couldn’t get leave, so we planned a separate weekend getaway with her later. I was especially excited about visiting Varanasi—not only for its spiritual energy but also because I’d get to see my dad’s side of the family after a couple of years. Rishi’s cousin Mausi, posted there with the army, hosted us inside the cantonment, which made our stay even more memorable. We also added Brij Bhoomi to the itinerary, turning our short visit into a deeply meaningful journey through some of UP’s most sacred places.

Day 1 – 18 December 2024

Our journey began with an early morning flight from Bangalore to Varanasi. After landing, we took a cab straight to the army cantonment, where we were staying thanks to Rishi’s cousin Mausi. We checked into the guest house within the cantonment and got a chance to freshen up before heading to Mausi’s house for lunch. It was lovely to meet her and the family around the lunch table—it felt warm and familiar right from the start. After a hearty meal and some much-needed rest, we set out for our very first Varanasi experience, eager to soak in the city’s timeless energy.

Our evening began with a bit of drama outside the cantonment gate. We found an auto and asked to be dropped at Ravidas Ghat for our Alaknanda Cruise. He refused to go all the way but offered to drop us at a spot where we could find another ride. Unfortunately, that “spot” turned out to be the middle of a chaotic crossroad. What followed was 15–20 minutes of haggling, waiting, and watching auto drivers argue over route rights. No one was willing to take us, despite our rising offers. Just as we were starting to think we’d miss the cruise, one auto finally agreed to drop us at Ravidas Ghat—at a steep price, of course. Thankfully, we made it just in time. As the cruise set off from Ravidas Ghat, the chaos faded behind us. The gentle motion of the Alaknanda on the Ganga, with the golden glow of the setting sun, set the tone for a magical evening. The cruise passed several iconic ghats—Assi Ghat, Tulsi Ghat, Chet Singh Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, and Panchganga—each steeped in stories, rituals, and history. As night fell, we reached Dashashwamedh Ghat in time to witness the grand Ganga Aarti from the water—a surreal view with priests in synchronised motion, flames rising into the night sky, and chants echoing across the river. The spiritual energy in the air was electric, and watching it all from the calm of the river made it even more special. The cruise gave us a unique and peaceful perspective of Varanasi—one that made the earlier chaos completely worth it.

Beyond its spiritual charm, Varanasi is equally famous for its vibrant street food—and chaat tops that list. After our serene evening on the Alaknanda Cruise, we hopped into another tuk-tuk and made our way to Deena Chat Bhandar, where we were meeting Mausi. The place has a bit of Instagram fame, and the buzz around it was real. We ordered a variety of chaats, curious to try as many flavours as we could. While not every dish won me over, the tamatar chaat definitely stole the show. Unique to Varanasi, it was a burst of tangy, spicy, and sweet all in one bite—unlike any chaat I’ve had before. With our plates piled high and stomachs full, that chaat feast happily doubled up as dinner for the night.

Day 2 – 19 December 2024

Our day in Varanasi began long before sunrise. We were up and ready by 4 a.m., the city still wrapped in silence and a light morning chill. The streets were quiet and the sky still dark as we set out for our first destination of the day.

Our first stop that morning was the serene Assi Ghat to witness the Morning Ganga Aarti—a spiritual experience that felt even more special thanks to Mausi. Owing to her senior position in the army, she was able to arrange VIP seats for us right in the front row. From this close vantage point, we watched every detail of the preparation unfold—the priests setting up the stage, the rhythmic chants, and the glow of lamps slowly brightening the foggy dawn. One of the highlights was being invited to light a few diyas that were later used in the aarti—a simple gesture that made us feel deeply involved in the ritual. The atmosphere was rich with devotion and calm, even though the heavy fog kept the Ganga hidden from view. We couldn’t see the river flowing right in front of us, but the sounds of the aarti and the sacred energy in the air made it a truly memorable experience—one we wouldn’t have had without Mausi’s thoughtful arrangements.

After the aarti, we made our way to the sacred Kashi Vishwanath Temple—one of the most revered shrines in India. Once again, thanks to Mausi’s efforts, our visit was specially arranged. We were escorted by an army personnel straight to the temple, bypassing the usual crowds. Phones had to be submitted before entry, so we couldn’t capture any photos, but the experience itself was unforgettable. As we walked through the temple grounds, I couldn’t help but reflect on my last visit as a child. So much had changed since then. Back in those days, there was no formal temple campus, and access to the inner sanctum felt simpler. Now, with increased security and the grand redevelopment, the temple has expanded into a beautifully organised complex. Normally, even VIP pass holders aren’t allowed into the Garbha Griha—the innermost sanctum housing the main Shivling. But with the VVIP arrangements made through Mausi, we were granted the rare opportunity to step inside and offer our prayers up close. Being able to stand in that sacred space, so close to the ling, was a deeply humbling and powerful moment—one we felt incredibly grateful for.

After our divine darshan at Kashi Vishwanath Temple, it was time to indulge in another kind of Varanasi speciality—its iconic street food. For breakfast, we headed just outside the temple and made our way to Gauri Shankar Kachori Wale, known for their famous hing kachori. Served hot with a generous helping of ghughni (a spicy chickpea curry), the kachori was bursting with flavour and lived up to its reputation. Crisp, spicy, and comforting—it was exactly the kind of hearty street breakfast we were craving. Next on Rishi’s list was malaiyo, a delicate winter-only dessert made from milk froth and flavoured with saffron and cardamom. Since we were visiting in December, we were lucky to spot vendors selling it fresh on the streets. I skipped it, not being a fan of milk-based sweets, but the others absolutely loved it. Light as air and subtly sweet, malaiyo was a melt-in-the-mouth treat that captured the essence of Varanasi’s winter charm.

After a satisfying breakfast, we made our way to the revered Kal Bhairav Temple—another important stop in Varanasi’s spiritual circuit. With Mausi’s arrangements once again in place, we were escorted by army personnel and granted VIP access through the temple’s exit gate, completely skipping the long queues. The darshan was brief but meaningful, and the temple’s powerful aura was unmistakable. As we stepped out and walked towards our car, we finally saw the massive crowd winding through the regular entrance. It struck us just how lucky we were—what took us only a few minutes could have easily been a 2–3 hour wait without the VIP entry. The ease and calm with which we experienced the temple was something we deeply appreciated.

One of the highlights of our Varanasi trip was the chance to shop for authentic Banarasi sarees—and Mausi made sure it was a truly special experience. Using her local contacts, she called a trusted wholesaler and saree manufacturer to her house, who arrived with an incredible collection of Banarasi sarees and suits. We didn’t have to step out into the crowded markets; instead, we got to browse through beautiful handwoven pieces from the comfort of her living room. The variety, the craftsmanship, and the richness of the fabrics were hard to resist. We shopped to our heart’s content—not just for ourselves, but also for family and close friends. It was more than just a shopping session; it felt like a festive gathering filled with laughter, colours, and the joy of picking out gifts with love.

While Mummyji continued with her saree shopping spree, Rishi and I took a short break to visit my cousin, Guddan Bhaiya, who lives just a few minutes away from the cantonment. As soon as he heard I was staying nearby, he insisted we drop by—and I’m glad we did. His house was barely an 8–10 minute walk from our guest house, making it an easy little detour. At his place, we were warmly welcomed by Bhaiya, Bhabhi, and their two lovely kids. It had been a while since we last met, so it was nice to sit down, catch up, and share stories over a comforting home-cooked lunch. The visit felt relaxed and personal.

In the evening, we resumed our temple visits, starting with the peaceful Sankat Mochan Temple. As phones had to be submitted at the entrance, we couldn’t take any pictures, but the calm, devotional atmosphere made the visit feel personal and grounding. It was a quiet, simple stop that added to the spiritual essence of our day.

Our next stop was the Tulsi Manas Temple, a place my dad had spoken about with fondness. When it was first built, it was considered quite unique—especially the mechanical statue of Tulsidas ji, shown writing the Ram Charit Manas. The temple walls were beautifully inscribed with verses from the Ramayan, creating a quiet, reverent atmosphere. It felt like walking through scripture, surrounded by devotion in every direction.

By the time we reached Durga Kund Temple, it was already dark, so we couldn’t really see the famous pond beside it. However, we did visit the temple next to it, which was beautifully lit and still full of devotees. The vibrant energy of the place stood out, even in the quiet of the evening.

For dinner, we headed to Roma’s Café, a continental restaurant suggested by Mausi. The ambience was cosy and modern, and we ordered Thai veg curry, which was flavorful and comforting. While Rishi and I enjoyed the change of cuisine, Mummyji wasn’t too fond of it, both because of the continental menu and the slightly higher prices.

Day 3 – 20 December 2024

Originally, the plan was to visit Ayodhya after Varanasi and then continue onward to Mathura. But with train cancellations and no direct connections from Ayodhya to Mathura, our itinerary hit a snag. The alternative—travelling via Lucknow on a midnight train and figuring out luggage storage during the day—just didn’t seem practical. After weighing our options, we decided the best way forward was to make Ayodhya a day trip from Varanasi, even if it meant doubling back. So, once again, we were up and ready by 4 a.m., hitting the road early for the long drive. We did stop for breakfast on the way.

Our original plan was to begin our Ayodhya visit with the Ram Mandir, but just as we were about to enter through the VIP line, we were informed that Yogi Adityanath, the Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh, had arrived for darshan. VIP entry was temporarily halted, and we had to quickly reassess. After a brief discussion, we decided to head to Hanuman Garhi instead. This actually aligned with tradition—devotees are meant to visit Hanuman Garhi first to seek Lord Hanuman’s permission before proceeding to Ram Mandir, as he is considered to be in a guarding position, protecting the city and Ram Janmabhoomi. So even though it wasn’t our original plan, it felt right. As we walked toward the temple, we saw that Yogiji had just visited there too, and some barricades were still in place. Once his convoy moved on, we were able to approach the temple. We picked up some prasad from a shop across the street, which turned out to be so good that we later came back to buy more for friends and family. Thanks to Mausiji, we were escorted by an army personnel who took us through the exit side of the stairs, bypassing the main line. But once inside, it was a different scene altogether. The temple was packed, and there wasn’t much structure to the flow. The army escort got us into the nearest possible line, but from there we had to navigate the chaos ourselves—jostling crowds, people cutting lines, and general pushing. Still, all of that faded the moment we saw the idol of Lord Hanuman. The darshan, though brief and hard-won, was powerful and completely worth the effort.

By the time we returned to the Ram Janmbhoomi after our darshan at Hanuman Garhi, Yogi Adityanath had left the premises, and VIP entry had resumed. We deposited our phones in the designated lockers outside, as photography is not allowed inside, and proceeded through the VIP entrance. After clearing all the security checks, we finally stepped into the temple complex. Even though the construction is still ongoing, the site is already breathtaking. The scale, the detailing, and the peaceful aura of the temple left us truly mesmerised. Despite being a VIP line, it was still fairly crowded, though definitely more manageable than the general line. As we moved closer to the sanctum, we could catch glimpses of the beautiful idol of Shri Ram. People around us were tiptoeing and stretching just to keep the idol in sight as long as possible, since no one is allowed to linger for more than a few seconds. When our turn came, we stood before the idol and offered our prayers with full devotion, taking in the moment with gratitude and reverence. After exiting, we made a small donation to the temple before heading out, feeling thankful to have experienced darshan at such a historic and spiritually powerful site.

Our final stop in Ayodhya was the Saryu Ghat. We reserved a toto and asked the driver to take us there and bring us back to a restaurant afterwards. At first, he was hesitant—probably assuming we wanted to do a full boating session—but once we clarified that we only intended a brief visit, he agreed. He dropped us about 500 meters before the ghat, and we walked the rest of the way. The riverfront was peaceful and serene. We didn’t take a dip, but we did sprinkle a bit of the sacred Saryu water on ourselves as a symbolic gesture before heading back. It felt like a quiet, spiritual end to our Ayodhya visit.

We wrapped up our visit to Ayodhya with lunch at a vegetarian restaurant before beginning the long drive back to Varanasi. The return journey felt slower, and I even experienced a bit of motion sickness along the way. Once we got back, we headed straight to Mausi’s house for dinner. It was comforting to end the day with a home-cooked meal. Before calling it a night, we packed our bags, as it was our last night in Varanasi, and we had a train to catch the next evening.

Day 4 – 21 December 2024

On our last morning in Varanasi, we packed up and moved our luggage to Mausi’s house to check out of the guest house. After a hearty breakfast at her place, Mausi took us on a quick detour to a small shop where we picked up some beautiful Banarasi dupattas. From there, we headed to her office. Visiting her workplace and meeting her colleagues was a special moment—it made us proud to see her in her element. After some warm conversations, we said our goodbyes, grateful for all that she had done to make our stay so memorable.

Next, we headed to Sarnath. Before entering, we browsed through the stalls outside the gate and ended up buying several cute cloth bags as souvenirs. Our first stop was the Archaeological Museum, which houses an impressive collection of sculptures and relics, including the iconic Ashoka Pillar—the national emblem of India. After that, we explored the archaeological site, where the Dhamek Stupa and the scattered ruins of ancient monasteries offered a glimpse into Sarnath’s rich Buddhist legacy and tranquil past.

After exploring Sarnath, we hopped into a tuk-tuk to head to Chachi’s house. Unfortunately, the driver misheard the apartment name and dropped us at a different building nearby, then insisted on being paid. Since we weren’t in a rush this time, we decided to walk the rest of the way. At Chachi’s house, the whole family was already gathered—Badi Mummy, Bade Papa, Naveen Uncle, Chachi, Ajit Bhaiya, Akshita Bhabhi, and little Aavya. We also met Guddan Bhaiya, Ponty Bhabi, and Ashi again. They had prepared a generous spread of food, and we happily dug in, enjoying the warmth and togetherness of a full house.

After saying our goodbyes, we hurried back to Mausi’s house to collect our luggage. On the way, we realised Rishi had forgotten his jacket at Chachi’s house, so we quickly called Guddan Bhaiya, who was heading to the same area, and asked him to bring it along. We reserved an auto and asked the driver to wait while we gathered our things. Once packed, we loaded the auto with all the luggage, and while one of us stayed with it, the rest of us walked to the train station—just about 100 meters from Mausi’s home. At the station, we met Guddan Bhaiya again, who helped us with the luggage, found the right platform, and made sure we boarded the train smoothly. And with that, our memorable stay in Varanasi came to an end as we set off toward Mathura.

Day 5 – 22 December 2024

We arrived in Mathura early in the morning and began looking for a cab to reach our hotel in Vrindavan. The driver we found turned out to be a local from Mathura and was quite knowledgeable about the Brij region. On the way to the hotel, he confidently listed all the important spots he could take us to and, since his itinerary largely matched my own research, we agreed to book him for the rest of our trip—even though his route was slightly different from what I had initially planned.

Since we reached the hotel well before check-in time, we paid a little extra for a temporary room to rest while our actual room was being prepared. I had begun feeling unwell by this point, with low energy that made it hard to even get ready. While waiting, we decided to have breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant. After eating, we finally checked into our rooms, freshened up, and got ready to begin exploring Brij.

Our first stop in Vrindavan was the stunning Priyakant Ju Temple, uniquely shaped like a blooming lotus flower. We arrived just in time for the aarti, which added to the divine atmosphere, and admired the beautiful interiors with intricately crafted idols and serene decor before the temple closed for the morning.

Our visit to Gokul Dham was a spiritual walk through Krishna’s early life. According to legend, Gokul is where baby Krishna was secretly brought after his birth in Mathura to escape Kansa’s wrath and was lovingly raised by Nand Baba and Yashoda Maiya. Our driver coordinated with a local panda (guide) who walked us through the narrow lanes of Gokul, giving us a deeper understanding of the place. We passed through Gaushalas, which are revered as they cared for the cows Krishna once tended. We also visited Sri Darshneshwar Mahadev, an ancient temple said to have been worshipped by Nand Baba himself.

Our final stop was Shri Nand Yashoda Bhawan, which had a grand and beautifully carved entrance gate. Inside, a large hall was filled with life-size statues narrating Krishna’s birth and playful childhood. We then entered the main temple, where a unique tradition awaited us — just as Krishna crawled as a child in this home, visitors are asked to crawl to his idol, placed on a swing. With our guide’s help, we made our way through the crowd. Photography was not allowed, preserving the sanctity of the space. At the front, we opted to donate for a special blessing meant for our parents. As part of this, we were allowed to swing baby Krishna’s idol and offered special prayers. A kind priest also blessed me personally with wishes to have a child — a touching moment that made this visit even more memorable.

Our visit to the Brahmand Ghat in Gokul was peaceful and spiritually enriching. This serene spot along the Yamuna River is tied to one of the most profound leelas of Lord Krishna. According to legend, little Krishna once ate mud, and when Yashoda Maiya scolded him and asked him to open his mouth, she saw the entire universe (brahmand) within it — stars, planets, creation itself. Shocked by this divine vision, she fainted, realising her child was not just a playful boy but a divine incarnation. The ghat, though spiritually significant, bore visible signs of pollution — the Yamuna River, sadly, is now quite dirty, so we chose not to touch the water. Still, the calmness of the place and the weight of the story it carries made the visit deeply memorable.

We visited Chintaharan Mahadev Temple, a peaceful and sacred Shiva temple in Gokul. According to belief, Lord Shiva himself came here to have darshan of baby Krishna and to relieve devotees of their worries — hence the name Chintaharan, meaning the remover of worries. The temple was simple yet divine in its atmosphere. Surrounded by calm, it offered a quiet moment of reflection. We bowed before the Shiva linga, seeking blessings for peace and strength before continuing our journey through Krishna’s land.

We next visited Raman Reti, a sacred sandy stretch near Gokul believed to be the playground of young Krishna and Balram, where they would wrestle, play, and roll in the sand. Even today, devotees come here to relive that divine joy — we saw many people rolling in the sand, laughing, and even tossing it over each other like Holi colours, all as an act of devotion. While we didn’t throw sand at each other, I did sit down for a while, letting the soft sand run through my hands, feeling a deep, playful connection to Krishna’s childhood stories.

Our visit to the Dwarkadheesh Temple in Mathura — one of the most important and grand temples dedicated to Lord Krishna in his kingly form, Dwarkadheesh — was quite the experience. The temple was packed, and the crowd control was minimal. Men and women had to enter through separate lines, and both sides were full of heavy pushing and chaos. It was a rough entry, but we managed to have darshan despite the crush of devotees. After exiting, we couldn’t immediately find our designated shoe stand in the crowd and, in the confusion, got a bit separated from Papaji. With some phone calls, coordination, and standing near the right stall, we eventually reunited and made a quick escape from the overwhelming rush.

We walked to Vishram Ghat, a sacred spot on the banks of the Yamuna River where Lord Krishna is believed to have rested after defeating Kansa. Hoping to witness the Yamuna Aarti, we waited among a large crowd for about 15–20 minutes. However, with no signs of it starting soon and worried about missing our next temple, we decided to skip the aarti and move on.

We visited the Krishna Janmabhoomi temple in Mathura, believed to be the exact place where Lord Krishna was born, inside a prison cell (karagar) during King Kansa’s reign. It is one of the holiest sites in the Hindu faith. The original birthplace is said to lie beneath a large mosque that was built over the site centuries ago, and there’s an ongoing legal case for reclaiming the sacred land. As we walked through the karagar area, the atmosphere felt deeply spiritual and intense, though tinged with a sense of injustice over the current situation. By the time we entered the main temple complex, it was almost closing time. We managed to do darshan just in time. Afterwards, we wanted to see the cave show (a small walkthrough experience inside the temple campus that illustrates Krishna’s life), but unfortunately, they had stopped selling tickets just 1–2 minutes before we reached. We decided to return the next day. Phones weren’t allowed, so we couldn’t take any photos during our visit.

Day 6 – 23 December 2024

We began our next day in Vrindavan with an early start. After getting ready, we had a simple but filling breakfast at our hotel’s restaurant. Energised and eager to explore more of Brij Bhoomi, we set out to continue our spiritual journey through the land of Krishna.

Our first stop for the day was Kirti Mandir in Barsana, a beautiful and serene temple dedicated to Kirti Devi, the mother of Shri Radha Rani. This is believed to be the only temple where Radha ji is seen sitting in her mother’s lap, symbolising her childhood and maternal bond. The temple is relatively new but spiritually significant, especially for devotees of Radha Rani. As we arrived, we were immediately struck by the gorgeous pink sandstone structure, adorned with intricate carvings and detailed sculptures. The temple’s architecture had a Rajasthani feel, and the atmosphere was calm and devotional. We took our time admiring the carvings and the peaceful surroundings. Inside, the idol of Radha ji sitting in Kirti Maa’s lap was both divine and heartwarming. It felt like a gentle, maternal welcome into Barsana, the land of Radha Rani. Our visit was unhurried and soulful, setting a beautiful tone for the rest of the day.

Our next stop was the Radha Rani Mandir in Barsana, one of the most revered temples dedicated to Shri Radha Rani, the divine consort of Lord Krishna. This temple is believed to be situated on the Bhanugarh hill, where Radha Rani spent her childhood. According to local belief, the hill has a sacred boon that no demon or evil force can set foot there, making it a spiritually protected space. As we reached the base of the hill, we noticed several local girls offering Chandan (sandalwood) shringar, applying it on our foreheads for a small fee—it felt like a part of the tradition, so we all got it done. To reach the hilltop, we took a gondola ride, which saved us from a steep climb and offered lovely views of the surrounding area. The temple at the top was quite crowded and lively with chants and bells. Inside, due to the rush, we couldn’t reach the front of the idol, but from the staircase behind the crowd, we were able to get a clear and peaceful glimpse of Radha Rani, adorned beautifully. After our darshan, we received prasad that was being distributed outside the temple. We also tried hing vada from a nearby stall, which turned out to be delicious. The visit felt spiritually rich and joyful, surrounded by devotion and energy.

Our visit to Nandgaon, specifically the Nand Baba Temple, was both spiritually significant and a bit challenging due to the overwhelming crowd. The temple is perched atop a hill, much like Radha Rani Mandir in Barsana, and holds a similar belief—that the hill is blessed in such a way that no Rakshas (demon) can enter it. It is said that this divine protection is what led Nand Baba to relocate his family here from Gokul when Krishna’s life was under constant threat from Rakshas. After climbing a flight of stairs, we reached the temple, which from the outside looked quite beautiful and peaceful. However, the interior was packed with devotees. This temple is especially important because it is said to house the idols of the entire divine family—Krishna, Balram, Yashoda, and Nand Baba—making it a rare and sacred place. When we entered the main temple hall, we were asked to sit down, similar to our experience at Gokul’s Nand Yashoda Bhawan. The idols were hidden behind a curtain, and the priests only unveiled them for a brief moment after collecting donations and filling the room. We waited patiently, hopeful for a glimpse. But the moment the curtain lifted, the entire crowd jumped to their feet, blocking any view for those of us seated at the back. Despite tiptoeing and stretching, we couldn’t catch a glimpse of the idols. Disappointed but still full of devotion, we folded our hands in prayer toward the direction of the sanctum and exited the temple hall. After that, we strolled through the temple complex, which was quite picturesque and peaceful compared to the chaos inside.

Our visit to Govardhan was a memorable and spiritually rich experience. Govardhan Parvat holds immense importance in Krishna Bhakti, as it is believed that Lord Krishna lifted the hill on his little finger to protect the villagers of Braj from the wrath of Indra’s torrential rains. Since then, the hill has been worshipped as a form of Krishna himself, and doing a parikrama (circumambulation) around it is considered an act of deep devotion. Our driver dropped us at a point where we could get a tuk-tuk for the 21-kilometre-long parikrama. As we began the journey, we saw many devotees walking the path barefoot, and even more astonishingly, we witnessed some performing the Dandavat Parikrama, where they lie flat on the ground, mark the spot, stand up, and repeat the process, measuring the entire distance with their body length. It was incredible to see such faith and commitment.

Along the parikrama route, we stopped at several sacred sites. We passed Manasi Ganga, a peaceful lake where Krishna is believed to have performed divine leelas. At Daan Ghati Temple, we remembered the playful story of Krishna collecting tolls from the gopis. We also visited Mukharvind Temple, where devotees worship the ‘mouth’ of Govardhan Hill by offering milk and water. Finally, we reached Poochri Ka Lotan, the last point of the parikrama, named after the spot where Krishna and Balram are believed to have playfully crawled as children. The parikrama was not just a physical journey, but a powerful spiritual experience, bringing us closer to the leelas and essence of Krishna’s presence in Braj.

During our Govardhan Parikrama, one of the most beautiful and peaceful stops we made was at Kusum Sarovar. This serene and picturesque site is steeped in devotion and history. It is believed that this is the place where Radha used to come to collect flowers (kusum) with her friends, and where she often met Krishna. The spot is also associated with several of Krishna’s playful leelas, making it an important site for devotees. The sarovar (lake) itself is surrounded by stunning Rajasthani-style architecture, with intricately carved chhatris (cenotaphs) built by the royal family of Bharatpur. The symmetry of the buildings, the calmness of the water, and the sacred significance of the place created a truly magical atmosphere. We spent some time walking around the lake, taking in the beauty and soaking in the spiritual energy of the place. It was a peaceful pause during our journey, offering both visual delight and soulful calm.

During our Govardhan Parikrama, we also made our way to Radha Kund and Shyam Kund, two of the holiest sites in the entire Braj region. These sacred water bodies are considered the most revered among all holy kunds in the area, and devotees believe that bathing here grants liberation and divine love. According to the legend, after Krishna killed the demon Aristasura (who came in the form of a bull), Radha and the gopis told him that killing a bull, even if it was a demon, was a sin. To purify himself, Krishna created Shyam Kund by striking the ground with his heel and filling it with the holy waters of all sacred rivers. Seeing this, Radha ji and her friends dug Radha Kund nearby, and Krishna then filled it with water from Shyam Kund. Since then, both kunds have been considered supremely sacred, representing the divine love and oneness of Radha and Krishna. The kunds were simple yet spiritually charged. We saw many devotees bathing, praying, and offering water or flowers with deep devotion. Even though we didn’t bathe in the water ourselves, standing there and witnessing the devotion and energy of the place was truly moving. The narrow lanes, the old architecture, and the calm water made the experience feel timeless and divine.

Our final stop for the day was ISKCON Vrindavan, also known as Sri Sri Krishna Balaram Mandir, and we visited it at night. The temple, bathed in soft golden lights, looked serene and divine against the dark sky. It was the perfect peaceful ending to a spiritually intense day. As we walked in, the calm energy of the temple instantly made us slow down and breathe deeper. The pristine white marble structure glowed under the lights, and the atmosphere was filled with soft kirtans and the gentle sounds of devotees chanting the Hare Krishna mahamantra. Inside, the beautifully adorned deities of Krishna-Balaram, Radha-Shyamsundar, and Gaura-Nitai stood resplendent, even more magical in the quiet of the night. We sat for a while in silence, soaking in the devotion and tranquillity that the place exuded. Despite the tiredness from the long day, the experience felt deeply calming and spiritually fulfilling. This nighttime visit to ISKCON Vrindavan wrapped up our day with a sense of inner peace and contentment.

Day 7 – 24 December 2024

On the final day of our Vrindavan trip, we got ready and left early in the morning to visit our first temple. Despite being a bit tired, the peaceful morning and the excitement of one last day gave us a fresh burst of energy as we began our day.

Our visit to the sacred Banke Bihari Temple—one of the most revered temples in Vrindavan, dedicated to Lord Krishna in his child-like form—was meant to be a special VIP experience, but turned out to be quite the adventure. The temple is known for its unique tradition of keeping the idol hidden behind a curtain that opens briefly, as it is believed that Krishna’s eyes are so enchanting, he might leave the temple to follow a true devotee. Rishi’s friend’s wife, who belongs to one of the priest families managing the temple, arranged a junior pandit to help us. We coordinated with him to meet at the exit gate around 8 AM, and he led us inside, bypassing the massive entry queue. Inside the main courtyard, the crowd was overwhelming. During the first curtain opening, we couldn’t catch a proper glimpse of the idol. So, the pandit manoeuvred us through the packed space and helped us stand on the railing just in time for the next curtain opening, allowing us a few precious seconds of darshan. Despite the VIP entry, the sheer crowd—possibly due to school holidays—made the visit quite chaotic. And to top it off, Mummyji sadly realised her favourite shawl had slipped off in the crowd.

The Radha Vallabh Temple is one of the oldest and most revered temples in Vrindavan, devoted to the unique worship of Radha and Krishna together, with special emphasis on the devotion to Radha. Unlike other temples, the main idol here represents Krishna, while Radha is worshipped in spirit through her presence in everything around. Our visit to the temple turned out to be extremely chaotic due to the heavy crowd. Like at Banke Bihari, the idol here is also hidden behind a curtain that opens only briefly for darshan. When we reached the first floor for a better view, the pushing and shoving became so intense that I genuinely felt unsafe, as if I might fall to the ground floor below. It was a scary moment, but somehow, we managed to catch a glimpse of the idol before making our way out.

After visiting Radha Vallabh Temple, we walked to Nidhivan, one of the most sacred and mysterious places in Vrindavan. It is believed that every night, Lord Krishna performs the divine Ras Leela here with Radha and the gopis, and no one is allowed inside the premises after dark. Locals say that those who try to witness these divine events never return the same. Inside Nidhivan, we saw the place where the Banke Bihari idol is believed to have appeared—a spot of deep spiritual significance. We also saw the small room where Radha and Krishna are said to rest after their nightly Ras Leela. The lore says that the room is locked every evening with offerings like toothbrushes, a water pot, a saree, and sweets left inside. By morning, these items appear used, as if Radha and Krishna had truly come to rest there during the night. The dense grove of tulsi plants around us, said to transform into gopis at night, added to the mystical energy. The atmosphere was quiet, reverent, and deeply moving—we left feeling awed by the sacred stories tied to this extraordinary place.

Our visit to Radha Rani Mansarovar was peaceful and serene, a refreshing change after the crowds in Vrindavan. Surrounded by lush greenery and a calm atmosphere, the sarovar (pond) felt like a hidden gem tucked away from the usual chaos. The place had very few visitors, allowing us to sit quietly, soak in the tranquillity, and reflect on our journey. Radha Rani Mansarovar holds special significance as it is believed to be the lake of tears formed when Radha cried out of love and longing for Krishna during their separation. Devotees come here seeking inner peace, emotional healing, and a deeper connection with Radha’s divine love. The still waters and gentle breeze carried a quiet spiritual energy that made our visit truly calming and memorable.

Our visit to Mahalaxmi Mandir in Belvan was a spiritually enriching stop on our journey. The temple is located in a peaceful village setting, surrounded by trees and open spaces that made the experience feel calm and divine. The temple itself had a humble yet sacred aura, and we were able to do darshan without any crowd, which allowed us to spend a few quiet moments in prayer. The significance of Mahalaxmi Mandir lies in the story that Goddess Laxmi came here to do tapasya (penance) in order to get permission to enter Vrindavan and witness Shri Krishna’s divine leelas. As Vrindavan is considered a sacred space of Radha’s love, even Goddess Laxmi had to undergo intense penance to seek entry. This temple stands as a reminder of the supremacy of Radha’s devotion and the unique spiritual aura of Vrindavan.

Our visit to Bhandir Van was peaceful and spiritually fulfilling. The forest had a quiet, sacred aura, surrounded by greenery and ancient trees, making it easy to imagine the divine pastimes of Radha and Krishna unfolding there. We walked through the serene surroundings, taking in the calm atmosphere and the beauty of the place. Bhandir Van holds great significance as it is believed to be the sacred spot where Lord Brahma secretly performed the divine marriage of Radha and Krishna. This is considered a hidden leela, not witnessed by the general world, and emphasises their eternal bond. The small temple at the heart of the forest marks this spiritual union, and many devotees visit here to pray for marital happiness and blessings in relationships. The divine energy of the place, along with its quiet charm, made it one of the most peaceful stops on our journey.

Our visit to Vansivat was quite challenging because of the noise and crowd around the sacred tree. It is said that Radha once hid Krishna’s flute in this tree, and since then, devotees who place their ear on the tree with true devotion can hear the divine tune of Krishna’s flute. However, with so many people gathered there, talking loudly and jostling, it was difficult for us to concentrate or experience the peaceful connection the place is known for. Despite our devotion, the noisy environment made it hard to listen to the mystical flute melody.

On our second visit to Krishna Janmabhoomi in Mathura, we returned specifically to catch the small cave show inside the temple campus that we had missed earlier. This time, we made sure to arrive earlier so we wouldn’t miss it again. The cave beautifully depicted the life and divine leelas of Krishna, adding depth and context to our understanding of the sacred site. It was a meaningful experience that enriched our visit to this important pilgrimage place.

Our visit to the Vaishno Devi Temple in Vrindavan was a remarkable experience. Spanning over 12 acres, the temple complex offers a meticulously designed pathway that simulates the pilgrimage to the original Vaishno Devi shrine in Jammu. Walking through the man-made cave, adorned with depictions of the goddess’s legends, provided a profound sense of devotion and connection. A standout feature of the temple is the towering 141-foot statue of Maa Vaishno Devi, seated majestically on a lion. This statue, the tallest of its kind in the world, is visible from a distance and serves as a beacon of spiritual inspiration. The temple was established in 2010 by the Jay Kay Trust under the guidance of Shri J.C. Chaudhry, aiming to provide devotees who cannot travel to Jammu an opportunity to seek the blessings of Maa Vaishno Devi in the sacred city of Vrindavan. The serene ambience, coupled with the spiritual significance of the site, made our visit deeply fulfilling.

Our visit to Prem Mandir in Vrindavan marked the final temple stop of our trip, and it was truly a grand finale. Despite the long and crowded entry line, we patiently waited and passed through the security check to enter the temple campus at night. The sight that greeted us was breathtaking—the temple was illuminated beautifully, casting a serene glow that enhanced its intricate marble architecture. The design reminded us of Kirti Mandir in Barsana, and upon reflection, we realised both temples were established by Jagadguru Shri Kripalu Ji Maharaj, which explained the architectural similarities. Prem Mandir, meaning “Temple of Divine Love,” is a monumental shrine dedicated to Radha Krishna and Sita Ram. The temple is renowned for its intricate marble carvings that depict various pastimes (leelas) of Lord Krishna, including the Jhulan Leela, Govardhan Leela, Raas Leela, and Kaliya Naag Leela. These depictions are artistically displayed on the temple’s outer walls, allowing devotees to immerse themselves in the divine narratives as they circumambulate the temple. Visiting Prem Mandir at night added a magical touch to our experience. The illuminated temple against the night sky created a mesmerising ambience, leaving us with a sense of peace and spiritual fulfilment. It was a fitting conclusion to our spiritual journey through Vrindavan.

Day 8 – 25 December 2024

We started our journey from Vrindavan early in the morning to reach Noida, where we were warmly welcomed at Rishi’s Mausi’s house. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Mausi (Mummyji’s sister), Mausaji, and their younger son, Sona. It was comforting to be in a home setting again after the hustle of our temple visits.

The day was spent in a relaxed and cheerful atmosphere, catching up with family and sharing the stories of our trip. We eagerly recounted the highlights of our journey, from the spiritual serenity of Vrindavan to the vibrant chaos of temple crowds. Mausi was keen to hear about our experiences and see all the things we had bought during our travels, especially the items from Varanasi.

We also spent time watching the wedding videos of Nupur and Rajat, reliving the joyous celebrations and sharing a few laughs and memories. It was a lovely way to connect and celebrate family togetherness.

The real treat, however, was the delicious home-cooked meals. Mausi served us a variety of dishes with warmth and love, reminding us of the comfort and joy that only home-cooked food can bring. The day passed in conversations, laughter, and a sense of peace, making our short stay in Noida truly memorable.